Mas Amiel Altair Cotes du Roussillon Biodynamic (White) 2021

Tamlyn Currin: 17.5 pts
Certified organic (AB, Ecocert) and biodynamic (Biodyvin), 100% spontaneous fermentation, no added sulphites, no additions or manipulations in the cellar. A field blend of 70% Grenache Gris, 30% Grenache Blanc and Macabeu from a vineyard of 72-year-old vines called Mas de la Fredes. It is vinified in a very strange concrete tank that looks a bit like a slightly squashed Swiss roll on short stilts.
Smells like baked potato and roasted buckwheat, hops and dried chamomile. Incredibly aromatic. White pepper. Stunningly pure threads of compact bitterness running the length of the palate which is a chewy mouthful of white fennel and celeriac. Very direct and straight from the schist. Long and so complex. A very serious white wine, pounding with energy. (TC)
Drink 2023-2030